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Saturday October 6, 2001
Habitat Construction Center
1631 Rowan St.

9:30 a.m.-11:00 a.m. 

Introduction:

The success of any paint job depends on three (3) things:

1). How you prepare the surface (and environments) before painting

2). The paint you use (type of finish and quality)

3). How you apply the paint

In the course of this workshop, we will discuss several paint-related topics and provide you with a hands-on opportunity to use a roller and a trim brush with demonstrations by one of our Habitat painters.

A brief workshop outline is as follows:

• Types of paint and paint finishes
  • Latex, acrylic alkyd-oil base
  • Flat, eggshell, semi-glass, hi-gloss
  • A word about primers
  • Interior and Exterior
• Painting tool checklist
• Calculating paint quantity
• Basic sequence for painting a Habitat house
• Preparation
• Application (Tips from pros)
• Clean-up
• Problems we have had
• Troubleshooting
• Specialty items
• Outside painting

Types of Paint:

Latex:

Alkyd-oil based paint:

Durable, resist scraping, dries harder than latex but these paints are solvent-based and brushes and equipment must be cleaned with a paint thinner or mineral spirits. Alkyd finishes are: FLAT, SATIN, SEMI-GLOSS, and HIGH GLOSS.

Compared to acrylic, alkyd/oil offers better adhesion on a chalky surface. It penetrates wood and seals off stains better. It can be applied when the temperature is too low or too high for latex.

Flat paint gives a low sheen and helps hide surface irregularities. Exterior gloss (which has a lower sheen than gloss enamel) looks better and longer and is easier to clean than flat.

Primers:

Primers offer added protection to wood and drywalls and will stick to surfaces that a finish coat will not. They are designed to seal the surface properly, control penetration of the finish coat and provide a uniform, non-absorbent film that will prevent "flat" spots in the finish coat. Primers are "high hiding," so one finish coat will complete the job.

Always use the primer designed to go with the finish coat you have chosen. The primer should be tinted to match the finish coat…or close to it.

• When to use a primer:

  To obtain maximum life from your finish coat, you always use a primer. An exterior paint job using one finish coat cannot compare to the quality of a two-coat system.

  Of course, there will always be situations where you can get away with one coat. But you should not even consider "getting by" without a primer on unpainted wood…or badly weathered or worn surfaces…or when you want to change to an acrylic finish from an existing alkyd/oil finish with an old, chalky surface.

• Types of Primers:

Oil primers:

Painting Tool Checklist:

• For a HABITAT HOUSE INTERIOR job:

• Roller handles (9 inch)
• Roller covers (9 inch medium nap)
• Roller pans (tray liners)
• Small plastic paint pails
• Paint stirrers
• Extension pole for roller handles
• Rags to catch drips
• 2 ½ inch trim brushes (small foam brushes for touch-up)
• 6 ft. step ladders
• empty 5 gallon bucket for clean-up
• ADDITIONAL items sometimes needed:

• roll of 1 inch wide masking tape
• drop clothes (canvas)
• sponge(s)
• white acrylic caulking (top gun) and caulk gun
• paint scraper
• putty knife
• spackle compound
• sandpaper
• gloves
• A word about paint brushes:

• Roller naps come in three types:

• Medium nap and long nap are used for extremely rough surfaces (eg. Stucco, brick).

Calculating Paint Quantity:

To determine the proper amount of paint needed for a job, you must simply calculate square footage of the surface area to be painted and you must know the "coverage" per gallon (this figure is always listed on the label of the can).

Coverage:

• An average gallon of interior paint should cover about 320 square feet.
• Most exterior paints provide approximately 375 square feet of coverage per gallon.
• For a typical bedroom, say 10 ft. by 14 ft. with 8 ft. high ceilings you’ll make the following calculations:
• ceiling sq. ft. = 140 sq. ft. (10’ x 14’)
• walls = 8’ x 10’ = 80 sq. ft. times two walls = 160 sq. ft. plus 8’ x 14’ = 112 ft times two walls = 224 sq. ft. Adding 160 and 224 we get 380 sq. ft. – one coat

• Summary:
• For two coats of ceiling white paint you’ll need 140 x 2 or 280 sq. ft. or about 4/5 of a gallon.
• For wall, two coats, 380-sq. ft. (less windows/doors) you’ll need about 2.3 gallons of paint.

Painting Sequence:

• Habitat houses follow this sequence for interiors:
• Ceilings first, then walls (two coats), then trim (baseboard, doors, casing around the doors and windows).
• Exterior doors, shelving, gas meter and piping.
• Caulking is best done after the first coat.

** NOTE: Much of our trim including doors are pre-primed as they are manufactured.

• Habitat houses follow this sequence for exteriors:
• Generally begin at the top and work down.
• Paint the underside of the siding first then the surface; finish a complete side before stopping.
• Next do the windows, then doors, then the shutters last.

Preparation before Painting:

• Repair cracks or flaws by filling with spackling compound and sand smooth.
• Remove electrical cover plates.
• Clean and sweep the floors.
• Dust the walls; sponge lightly or use tack rag.
• Tuck wires into the electrical boxes
• If receptacles and switches are in, they must be covered with masking tape.
• Remove hinges and door hardware.

Paint Application:

• Maintain "Wet" Edge:

Whether using a brush or roller, it is very important to maintain a "wet" edge as you paint to eliminate lap marks. If you have to start a new can in the middle of a wall, mix some of the new can with the last of the old in the old can to ensure blending of the colors.

• Stir!

• Use a Paint Pot:

It’s easier to paint out of a pot than a paint can. And the can staysclean for resealing.

• Using a Brush:

Dip the brush about halfway into the paint. Withdraw it and tap it lightly against the inside of the pot to remove the surplus paint from both sides of the brush. Keep the brush well filled but not overloaded. Always use the flat side, never the edge of the brush. This will give a better appearance to the paint job and the brush will last longer.

• Keep/record color number on lids
• Paint ceilings first.

Rollers with extension handles work well for painting ceilings. If the ceiling is a different color than the walls, use a brush or edging tool around the edges.

• Paint the trim next.

  Use masking tape to cover the areas you don’t want painted. Be sure the paint has dried completely before you apply the tape. When done, remove the tape quickly to avoid pulling up the paint.

• Use a brush or edging tool to outline the areas to be rolled.
• Paint the walls, working in small areas.

When using a roller, paint an "M" shape then fill in the area with horizontal strokes. If you’re using a brush, apply the first strokes in sweeping arcs, then fill in the area with strokes in the same direction. For a smooth finish, always end the stroke in the previously painted area. Complete the entire wall before a break.

• Trimming:
  • Have everyone start out trimming with a maximum of 3 people in a room at a time.
• Have an experienced painter show people how to "cut in" around the ceilings, windows and corners. Dip your brush into the paint about 1". Then wipe off 1 side of the brush. Keep a rag handy for any OOPS! Leave no blobs on the floor. Clean out brushes thoroughly after each coat.
• When ½ done with trimming, start 3 people on rolling.
• Rolling:
  • Make sure roller is well coated with paint.
  • Start in a corner of the room and move to the next corner.
  • Over lap your roller passes to maintain a "wet" edge.
  • Look over the wall and make any touch ups before going onto the next wall
  • Be sure not to hit the ceiling with the roller. Roll horizontal along ceiling and floor.
  • If using a flat paint on the first coat, put rollers in plastic sleeves so they will not dry out. If using primer on the first coat, clean out the rollers and allow to dry.

Additional Painting Tips:

• Painting Baseboards:

Use 2-inch masking tape around the edge of the carpet when painting baseboards. Allow the tape to lay on the baseboard about ¾" and then tuck it down over the carpet fibers as you pull the away from the baseboard. The tape will not stick firmly to the carpet fibers, so let the paint dry before removing tape.

• Dry or Damp Surface:

Alkyd/oil paint must be applied to an absolutely dry surface. Acrylic cab be applied on a damp… but not… dripping surface.

• Hot or Cold Weather:

  Alkyd/oil should not be applied when the temperature is below 40 degrees F, latex/acrylic below 50 degrees F. Do not paint with either type when the temperature is over 95 degrees F or the relative humidity is over 85%.

  Avoid painting in the hot summer sun. Paint on the shady side. The paint will be less apt to blister.

Clean-Up:

• To avoid cleaning out brushes and rollers in the middle of a job using latex or oil, wrap them in aluminum foil... but only for a short time for latex…you can use the roller cover plastic sleeve to keep the latex roller wet during a lunch break.
• Do not start clean-up by dipping every piece of equipment in water or mineral spirits:
  • Remove bulk paint from brush or roller by hand, first, then use the water or solvent.
• Brush Twirler demonstration.
• Clean the brush further with a brush comb and hang up by handle; never leave a brush standing with bristles in a bucket,

Problems we’ve had:

• Touching up with the wrong color - look and read labels on the top of the can.
• Paint all over door hinges, hardware, electrical switches.
• Drips and runs – look over the surface just painted before moving on.
• Hitting the white ceiling with a color wall roller –DON’T!
• Roller "spattering" onto windows – going too fast!