Insulation, Caulking, Tyveck Workshop

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(J. Vandrhaar plus one additional person)
9:30AM-11:30AM at H.F.H. Construction Center

a. vocal instruction at markerboard
b. paper handouts with drawings from construction manual
c. videotape(s)
d. small model houseframe for hands-on demonstrations
e. Q and A sessions/recap and summary

1. Small drawings and pages from Ed Lewis Construction Manual
2. Types of insulation HFH uses; where they go; R-value explained
3. Tool list
4. Safety – working with fiberglass
5. Important Tips: two or three major items for attendees to remember for each topic
6. Problems we’ve had with insulation in the past, list 5.
7. Caulking – six short paragraphs with drawings from creative homeowner press brochure

1. Pass around sign-in sheet; say where you first heard about this workshop; church fax, newspaper, other volunteers or staff, other…
2. That HFH currently enjoys a fairly high rating with blower-door test…just shy of an energy star rating with our present techniques.
3. Show actual samples of three types of fiberglass insulation R-13 15 inches, R-19 for ceiling; note thickness Kraft paper face and fold-art flanges.
4. Basic lingo of insulation and places in house model where insulation is placed: rolls, batts, stays, baffles.
5. Explain vapor barrier Kraft paper – always faces living space.
6. Explain R-value (Resistance value) recommended for geographical areas of country.
7. Safety – Long sleeves, goggles, dust masks, gloves – breathe new air periodically: explain fiberglass dust and respiratory system…skin irritation etc.
8. Show portions of insulation videotape.
9. Show basic tools and tool list for loading : pass tools around.
10. Demonstration – How to load a T-50 staple gun – staple sizes.
11. How to measure and cut fiberglass insulation, 4 steps.
12. Hands-on demonstration and practice for walls – explain importance of stapling flanges to inside of studs – dead air space.
13. Demonstrate correct way to cut around electrical boxes, romex wire, etc.
14. How to insulate corner posts and tees prior to R-T-R.

14a. Extra important. Questions for Bob Powers at Sexton Insulation as consultant.

15. Show airbaffle sample; cut; W and M; proper way to install; explain function and air flow through baffle from soffit; use 3/8" staple, in between 24" truss bay.
16. Hands-on demonstration and practice installing R-30 Batts in model ceiling using 6ft. stepladder; caution against covering ceiling electrical boxes: how to cut around romex wire in ceiling.
17. Touch on cellulose and blown fiberglass in attics after drywall; how baffles are packed; brief explanation for future.
18. Insulating whole house fan and attic stairs.
19. Explain crawl-space floor insulation – use of support rods, spacing; kraft up, pinkin-your-face – use cardboard to lie on in reaching up to floor joists.
20. Basic team assignments for crawl space; cut, supply and f
21. Proper techniques for cracks around windows and doors show latex foam use – demonstrate and clean up.
22. Fitting insulation around electrical boxes to prevent cold air infiltration; use of foam pads.
23. Show why plumbing pipe and heating penetrating in floor must be insulated – demonstrate how.
24. Basic common sense at the job site: Open on bundle at a time; arrival and unloading; separate bundles into closets; outside and porch… tools central… Making use of scraps; cleanup in bags… return tools to bins.

1. staple flaps on sides of studs not face – why? Drywall adhesive and dead air space.
2. Covering up ceiling and wall electrical boxes accidentally…what problems this causes later…
3. Floor insulation installed upside down – which way is correct?
4. Heat loss through missed cracks; tub shower cavities: 3ft. hole.
5. Baffles not properly place – why is this important?

Questions and Answers and Quick Test on Fiberglass Insulation:

Tyvek Section

1. Pass around sample and button cap nails.
2. Explain housewrap concept.
3. Show TYVEK video…answer questions.

Caulking Section

1. Caulk types we use – silicone, where? Latex – where? Why?
2. The caulking gun – how to load, cut 45, poke.
3. Caulk demonstration on prepared wood samples; speed; drying time.
4. Hands-on experience for attendees – caulk rag… holding the gun.
5. Show videotape section on Caulking.
6. Clean up – how to use foam from can.

Tools and Samples to Have on Hand

For Insulation:

• Small one foot pieces of R-13, R-19, and R-30; Dow Rigid 2in.
• Safety goggles
• Dust masks
• Talcum powder
• Utility knives
• Arrow T-50 staple gun
• Tape measure
• 3/8 inch and ¼ inch staples
• work gloves
• 6 ft. step ladder
• drop lights and cords
• air baffles
• support rods
• one can latex foam
• shim shingle
• large piece cardboard for floor

For caulking:

• Caulk guns
• Silicone tube
• Top gun latex tube
• Utility knife
• Sample wood joints – sill and baseboard

For TYVEK:

• TYVEK roll and 3 to 4 ft. piece
• Hand-full of button-cap nails
• Utility knife and staple gun.

Insulation – Caulking – TYVEK Workshop Handout Notes

Jim Vanderhaar – April 7, 2001

Introduction:

Energy efficiency means saving on your utility bills. Basically this means sealing the house against AIR LEAKS. Without proper protection against air leaks, moisture-laden air can enter you home; heat-loss occurs; we use insulation, caulking and TYVEC housewrap to accomplish this protection. The Key is to seal all holes and seams where outside air can enter.

Note: Habitat occasionally uses a "blower-door" test to test the air-tightness of a home. We always get high marks for this test, but we can always improve; stay tuned.

Insulation: What is fiberglass?

In Habitat houses, we principally use fiberglass insulation. The basic material of sand and glass are melted then spun into wool-like fibers held together with a binding substance. This stuff is then made into blankets called "batts" or rolls, sometime with a paper face attached.

Why use it?

• Insulation resists the flow of heat…it’s the air pockets and space between the fibers that insulates.
• Insulation often used for sound control.
• Insulation can help control moisture. A vapor-resistant membrane (kraft paper) is attached to the fiberglass surface.

Types of Insulation We Use (show or pass around marked samples)

• Wear a paper dust-mask
• Breathe outside fresh air every 20 minutes
• Wear eye-goggles
• Wear gloves
• Wear long-sleeves, long pants
• In summer, you can use Baby Powder

Insulation Tool List (and associated material – show and tell)

• Paper dust-masks (safety)
• Work glove (safety)
• Safety eye-goggles
• Utility knives (for cutting)
• Arrow T-50 H.D. Staple guns, hammer tackers and electric staplers.

• ¼ inch Arrow staples (for insulation flaps)
• 3/8 inch Arrow staples (for air-baffles)
• Tape measures
• 6ft. step-ladders
• drop lights, three-way sockets and extension cords (for crawl-space)
• wooden shim shingles or flat screwdriver
• Two sawhorses and plywood plank (for cutting – may already be on site)

• Large bundles of fiberglass insulation
• Staples ¼ inch and 3/8 inch
• Support rods
• Latex foam can(s)
• Air-baffles
• Large piece of cardboard (for crawl-space)

• Use R-13, 15 inch wide, 3 inches thick.
• Gently press insulation batt into stud cavity and check to make sure it COMPLETELY fills top and bottom, with no gaps.
• Fold out side paper-flaps until the outside edge of the paper-flap is flush with the face of the stud. Then, fasten with ¼ inch staples into each side (5 or 6 per side) starting at the top.

NOTE: DO NOT STAPLE PAPER-FLAPS TO FRONT OF 2x4 STUDS. STAPLE TOTHE INSIDE. (Why?)

To Cut Insulation: Compress with a scrap 2x4 pinkside up… using the 2x4 or flat board as a guide press down firmly; using your utility knife draw the knife quickly across the batt towards you. Always cut on wood surface - e.g. floor or sawhorse table.

DEMONSTRATION – Hands on Cutting Insulation

• For narrow framed stud cavities, cut insulation two (2) inches wider than the hole or space. Staple the uncut flap as usual, pull the facing on the cut side and staple to the side of the stud.
• Check your work frequently… fill all gaps with loose handfuls of insulation… but don’t compress.

For insulating small cracks, Habitat is experimenting with a latex-foam sealer (Show can) DEMONSTRATE FOAM SEALANT.

• Conventional way is to take small pieces of fiberglass, removing the kraft-paper face and gently stuff smaller pieces into cracks using a wooden shim shingle or screwdriver to force insulation into crack. This is an important but tedious job and demands attention to detail.
• Fitting insulation around Romex electrical wires is accomplished by slitting the pink part (not the paper) partway through the thickness of insulation with a quick slicing motion of the utility knife.

Insert the wiring in the slash and continue. For walls, ideally you should staple the kraft paper at the top to the insulation of the top plate and the bottom to the sill plate.

Before starting ceiling insulation (R-30 23" wide) you must install air baffles between the trusses to the inside of the rood sheathing.

• The purpose of air baffles is to permit the free flow of air from vented soffit through the baffle in order to circulate freely in the attic space.
• Use 6 ft. stepladder – fully extend ladder for safety.
• HFH uses Styrofoam air baffles 2ftx4ft called "Rafter-mate". (See sample)
• Usually we cut across the baffle into thirds using a utility knife to conserve materials.
• For blown-in fiberglass, cut baffle in half.
• Load staple gun with 3/8" staples
• Make certain flat part of baffle is against roof sheathing: staple I 4 to 6 places
• If you are uncertain as to the proper placement, ask a Supervisor to check your work.

1. Ladder legs fully extended.
2. Leave no tool, staple gun, knife on ladder top.

• HFH now uses R-30, 23" wide, 9 inches thick. This is thick stuff and wider than wall insulation and more bulky, but the pieces are shorter. (see sample)
• Use ¼ inch staples – again, kraft paper face towards you, pink faces the attic.
• Start at one side or exterior wall… ceiling batts must press against baffles for a tight seal. No gaps, please; heat will escape.

• Gently stuff ceiling batts continuously in between trusses and unfold flaps to staple to the insides of the truss bottom cord. (Why?)
• Cut insulation around electrical wires and ceiling boxes same as in walls.

CAUTION: DO NOT ACCIDENTALLY COVER-UP CEILING ELECTRICAL BOXES WITH CEILING INSULATION! THIS CAUSES HAVOC LATER!

• Check every room ceiling and hallway ceiling as you insulate; there should be one or two electrical boxes in each ceiling; one in the center of the ceiling and another for a smoke detector: check frequently.
• Check for holes or gaps in ceiling insulation: take loose handfuls of fiberglass and stuff into these gaps. Check ENTIRE ceiling especially in tops of closets and hard-to-get-to places.

Insulating Floors (in crawl space) or… who likes going into caves?

• We use R-19, 15" wide, 6 inches thick for floors.
• In the crawl space, it is dark; you’ll need drop lights, 3-way sockets and extension cords to illuminate the scene first.
• Minimum number of workers for crawl space floor work is four (4) persons. One to cut and feed, three others who will install. More is better in order to rotate in shifts.
• Use cardboard to lie on your back as you face the upstairs floor.
• Start at the farthest end of the crawl space floor and work your way towards the storage door last; moving the lights with you. Wear your dust mask and take frequent fresh-air breaks.
• Remember to install the paper face towards the floor, pink-in-your-face. This is different from walls and ceiling.
• Gently place the insulation batts between the floor joists and push till they just touch the outside rim joist.
• Floor insulation is held in place with thin support rods (sample). No staples are necessary. Force the support rod up against the fiberglass and the ends of the rod will push against the sides of the floor joists. Apply a support rod every 20 to 24 inches as you move along.

Last Reminder: insulation paper faces upstairs, heated living space; you face the pink side as you lay on your back.

• HFH has tried other ways to do this job… it’s just a plain difficult job anyway you do it… but in the summer, it’s cool; in the winter it’s a warmer job than outside work.

• Wall switch and outlet electrical boxes should be insulated between the rear of the box and the O.S.B. sheathing.
• You can divide or separate the wall fiberglass into two layers; fit one part behind the box then cut the front half with paper around the box with you utility knife.
• Put insulation between piping and exterior wall sheathing (why?)
• Exterior side walls where tub-shower is placed must be insulated before tub-shower is in place. This is usually done at Raise-the-roof. If not, stand on the rub and stuff large pieces of insulation down behind the shower wall against the outside sheathing.
• Tub-shower drain hole must be covered. Stuff loose pieces in the hole in the floor around the drain or fix a piece of rigid board insulation around the hole.

1. Sometimes insulation side flaps are incorrectly stapled to the 2x4 stud-face instead of to the stud insides. This prevents drywall installers from using adhesive on the wallboard and can cause small bumps to occur on drywall surface. Correctly stapling to the insides gives a ¾ inch dead air space between paper surface and drywall – an excellent insulator. REMEMBER: ALWAYS STAPLE INSULATION FLAPS TO THE SIDES NOT THE FRONTS.
2. Sometimes volunteers unknowingly/accidentally cover up electrical boxes on the walls or ceilings. These boxes, aside from providing power to wall plugs, switches and light fixtures also function as junction boxes. If a box is covered by insulation, important electrical connections will not be made; various circuits will remain mysteriously incomplete… and electricians will curse and swear. REMEMBER: DON’T COVER UP ELECTRICAL BOXES ACCIDENTALLY; CUT AROUND THEM AND EXPOSE THEM.
3. Sometimes, in the crawl space when installing R-19 floor insulation volunteers mistakenly place the pink side against the floor leaving the paper facing them, as was the case with walls and ceilings. This is incorrect because the kraft paper moisture barrier always faces the heated space upstairs. REMEMBER: PINK IN-YOUIR-FACE WHEN YOU INSULATE UNDER FLOORS; PAPER SIDE UP.
4. Heat can escape through small cracks and cavities in wall framing and through very small gaps at the tops and bottoms of the wall cavities. Be on the look out for any gaps and fill them with loose handfuls of insulation. REMEMBER: FILL ALL GAPS AND CRACKS HOWEVER SMALL.
5. Air baffles are sometimes installed upside-down. This prevents proper airflow through the soffit to the attic space. Have someone to check your first air baffle installation before proceeding to the next.

Presently, HFH uses two types of caulking (show tubes)

• SILICONE caulk – lasts up to 50 years. Used around windows, doors, thresholds, under bottom sill of walls… anywhere to fill or seal that won’t require paint.
• LATEX caulk – "painter’s choice" – quick drying, used with water; mostly interior work: along baseboard trim, countertop backsplash, etc.

• Tube(s) of caulk
• Caulking gun(s)
• Utility knife (for cutting nozzle)
• Piece of wire or #16d nail (to puncture tube)
• Rag – (for cleanup)

DEMONSTRATION – loading the caulking gun – tube nozzle, piercing the cartridge, running a "bead", proper speed.

• Handout – C.H.P. brochure "Caulking and Weather Stripping"
• Hands-on trial by participants on jointed wood scraps.

• Hold the nozzle and gun at a 45-degree angle as shown above.
• Adjust the squeeze of the trigger to fit the speed and flow… it takes a little time.
• Plunger in the back of the gun is connected to the trigger mechanism and to the out-flow pressure.
• To stop the flow, release and twist the plunger pulling it back slightly.
• Occasionally the caulk bead will be rough or uneven – you can correct this by smoothing it out with your finger.

TYVEK Housewrap (show sample)

TYVEC is a synthetic, paper-like material manufacturer by DuPont. This Item we call a "Housewrap" because that’s what we do with it. Rolls are 9ft. Tall with 150 lineal feet of material; this is applied continuously around the Exterior sheathing of a new home after Raise-the-roof. This TYVEK is Resistant to water but is not a vapor barrier.

Installing TYVEC:

• 3 to 4 people to install; one person holds/rolls the roll; one person staples the TYVEC temporarily to sheathing, 3^rd and 4^th persons help align the TYVEC cut around windows and doors and fasten with 1 inch button-cap nails.
• Nail with cap nails every 2 to 3 feet.
• Overlap seams six inches and use tape to seal.
• TYVEC must cover below the sill plate.
• To cut around windows use the following sequence of cuts:
• Pull the wrap back, trim the excess and staple the flaps to the inside stud face of the rough opening.
• Cut TYVEK, flush at top of rough opening leaving no flap.
• Starting at the bottom first 6-inch wide strips of roof felt are cut to use as "flashing" prior to installing vinyl windows.
• Bottom felt strip goes over bottom of tough opening and overlaps TYVEC.
• Sides overlap bottom felt strip.
• Install window using caulk behind nailing flanges
• Insert top felt under TYVEC and flap the felt down over top nailing flanges or window. Tape all slits.

TYVEK is a proven air sealer and protects the r-value of the insulation in the wall, but it must be tight and sealed.

…That’s all folks!

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